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State Maryland
Legal status 🚫
Prohibited

3540 Crain Hwy, Bowie, MD 20716

Maryland

Bowie

12524 Mattawoman Drive, Waldorf, MD 20601

Maryland

Waldorf

5119 Park Heights Avenue, Baltimore, MD 21215

Maryland

Baltimore

8641 Zetts Avenue Suite A, Gaithersburg, MD 20877

Maryland

Gaithersburg

12850 Middlebrook Rd, Germantown, MD 20874

Maryland

Germantown

Edmondson Village, Baltimore, MD 21201

Maryland

Baltimore

615 S Frederick Avenue No. East, Gaithersburg, MD 20877

Maryland

Gaithersburg

10610 Baltimore Avenue, Beltsville, MD 20705

Maryland

Beltsville

3400 East West Highway, Hyattsville, MD 20782

Maryland

Hyattsville

12524 Mattawoman Drive, Waldorf, MD 20601

Maryland

Waldorf


Frequently asked questions about lender maryland

  • I m buying a new house in Hanover, MD. They have accepted the offer and we are doing our work. The settlement date is 29th April, 2011. The Home Inspection is being done successfully. We are working on the loan but due to the lower income we are unable to get higher loan of about $210k and are having about $190k. Is there anyway I can cover the $20k or I have heard in few cases that sometimes the Realtor pays for it and let the deal go on. Is that true? Should I ask my Realtor about this? Please help and thanks in advance.
  • First, as a realtor, why should they pay anything, especially $20,000. There isn't even 20k in the deal. You need to come up with the 20k OR take a loan program with a lower rate like an ARM. You didn't say what type of loan you are working on? If it's a FHA loan, they offer a ARM. FYI: Handover is near Ft Mead, which is a base realignment. The state of maryland actually has a program for this that may have lower rates. I'm not sure of all the details, but your lender should.
  • the inspection is as quickly as they settle to your furnish. make confident the place of work work for the accptance furnish says contingent upon inspection so which you would be able to take lower back your furnish. in the past you shut on the abode you do an exceedingly final walk by using.Do it the day of the remaining and if something is broken or harm it is the broker's duty to restoration it. in case you do no longer do an exceedingly final walk by using and you shut then discover obtainable is a few harm you're actually to blame. ask a great number of questions on the subject of the plumbing, electric, water harm or previous leaks and in spite of you may think of of that way if something comes up later and that they denied there grew to become right into a topic or lied you may sue for damages to get well the amt of $ you spent to repair
  • I'm interested in renting a house on a month-to-month basis in Maryland but I suspect that it may be on its way to foreclosure (although the landlord has not mentioned this). 1) Isn't he legally obligated to tell me if he is close to foreclosing on the house when I sign the rental agreement even if it is on a month-to-month basis? 2) What are all of my rights if I decide to rent the house and it does go into foreclosure? 3) Is it true that I can sue the landlord for damages and my moving expense, if it goes into foreclosure within the first 30 to 60 days? 4) If the house goes into foreclosure do I still have to pay the landlord rent? 5) If I stop paying rent can the landlord legally keep my security deposit or sue me for back-rent? 6) How long will I have to move out if it goes into foreclosure?
  • According to MD law... 1. Landlord is not require to inform you of the financial issues he has with his lender nor that the home may be foreclosed. 2. Your rights as a month to month renter remain the same. 3. No. 4. Of course you still pay rent. Your landlord financial issue with his lender does not change your obligation to pay for the roof over your head. 5. If you don't pay as agreed, you will forfeit your deposit and can be evicted and sued. 6. 30 days as a month to month tenant.
  • If you have never renovated property before, I wouldn't suggest you try it out on your first property. Rehabbing a property can be a long and painful process if you don't have all your ducks in a row. Rehabs can go over budget if you have not planned accordingly. Here is what you need to remember. 1.Inspections - Find a good reputable home inspector. The best inspectors I have found use a FLIR(Infrared camera) along with some basic inspecting skills. The infrared camera can see behind walls, incorrectly wired electrical boxes etc. You will pay extra for a Infrared inspector however, it will give you -Good piece of mind! 2.Appraisals - Make sure you know the local market well before you get to this stage. 3.Contractors - Include a liquidated damages addendum. As rehabs drag on, you are losing time and money. Someone has to pay the mortgage, Utilities, Taxes, and your time ofcourse. Contractors will sometime underestimate the time it will take for them to finish a job just so you will hire them. To combat this problem include a liquidated damages addendum in your contract. 4.Financing - There are not to many convetional lenders out there that are lending on conventional properties right now. So you will most likley have to use hard money. You can expext to get 50-60% LTV and 12-15% intrest rate. 5.Tenants - Screen your tenants well and don't over improve the property because most tentants will ........tear up most things. Do charge application fees and insist on a security deposit. Now if you don't think you have the stomach to handle all of those moving pieces, then buy the already renovated house. Although I noticed you said "very costly". NO investment property should be costly. YOu should buy investment properties to make money. Period. Remember you don't have to buy. You buy if its a good deal. Purchase price should equal at a maximum ....rent x 60 Example: If potential rent equals $1000 Then your maximum purchase price shoud be $1000*60 = $60,000 If you have enough cash though, you might consider investing in commercial property or apartment buildings. Economies of scale outweight SF investing. www.fullspectrumcapital.biz
  • No one can answer that question for you. Whatever you decide, be sure to have qualified home inspections done for either property. Make the contract contingent upon an appraisal, too. Both expenditures are well worth the cost and can save you thousands of dollars in the long run. If you decide on the old house, be sure that you can be present during the renovations. NEVER trust a contractor to do the job that you should be supervising, no matter who it is. Set a budget and then get prices for the renovations you plan. Be your own general contractor to save a bundle. Get three quotes for each segment of the renovations (carpentry, plumbing, electrical, etc.). Make the selection based upon price, as well as reputation and your overall feeling about the contractor. Or, if you really don't want all that work and hassle, just go ahead the buy the house that's in move-in condition. Just don't skip the inspections and the appraisal. There is no substitute.
  • You need to be at least 30 miles west of the beltway to find any good deals. Areas near Hagerstown, MD, are among the best for potential appreciation over the next 5 years. Southern Pennsylvania between Hagerstown and Chambersburg, PA, has some crazy-good deals available right now.
  • If you are the only one listed on the title deed, you need not have anyone's approval to sell this house. Even if Maryland was a community property state, if you were married and the mortgage was approved with your name, the mortgage lender would have required and demanded that your wife sign a deed prior to closing that she would have no legal interest in the house whatsoever.. This would still leave you as the sole person on the title deed, thus you would still not need the permission of anyone to sell the house or even to refinance the house. I hope this has been of some benefit to you,good luck. "FIGHT ON"
  • I am surprised loanmaster made the sexist assumption you are male. He should know plenty of women own property too. As you are not in a community property state and acquired the property prior to marriage it is your sole and separate property. You do not need permission from a wife or a husband.
  • In Maryland, no. MD is not community property.
  • I bought a privately held mortgage from the person who held the mortgage. We met, signed a contract saying I was buying and he was selling, and I took the assignment of mortgage document to be recorded at the city recording office. It depends on who holds the mortgage and what their policy is, but at it's simplest, you only need the two parties who are "switching" the mortgage, and the clerk that records this assignment. In fact, in the state of Maryland, this assignment does not legally have to be recorded, so you need never involve the county recorder, and it could just be an agreement between the two lenders.
  • It depends if you're refinancing or if the servicer of your loan is changing. If you're refinancing: your current servicer (who you send your payments to,) the company refinancing you, the title company, and the new servicer.) You may also need a new appraisal and your homeowner's insurance mortgagee clause will have to be updated. If your servicer is changing, just them and the new servicer. They will contact your insurance company and re-do the lien holder on your title.
  • TrailerBridge (out of San Juan) is cheapest if I remember. Lucky for you, northbound is cheaper. $425 to get it to Jacksonville, FL plus a few more bucks for inspections, round up and call it $500. If you want to pay someone to truck it to Maryland from Jacksonville, probably another $500 or so. I agree with the other guy, you're probably better off selling it and getting a new one stateside. Regarding shipping if you still have a loan on it, you'll need a letter of permission from the lender. If your credit is strong, probably not a problem, but if no, it probably would be. Call and ask.
  • cheaper to take it to Miami and drive to MD why not avoid customs - - sell it in PR. buy new car here all the best
  • Hey guys, I'm in need of some guidance. My car insurance is ripping me a new one. My insurance policy has me and my dad listed under it with two financed vehicles, I have been paying the insurance for us both because his insurance rate isn't that much and it benefits me to have him on the policy. For the past year I have been insured with "Esurance" and have been steadily paying $500.00 a month for insurance (it's high because I had a bad record 2 years ago but have stayed clean since then), I have never missed a payment. I lost my job last month and didn't have enough money to pay my October 1st insurance bill. I decided to take my name and car off the policy because I did not have the money to pay it. I left my dad and his car on the policy and paid $100 for their insurance, which was the last of the money I had. I did not drive my car since I had taken it off the policy (7 days). I didn't think doing that would be a problem since I had not been driving my car. I have recently found a new job and was able to save up a few hundred dollars. When I called my insurance company to have me reinstated to my policy they said that a red flag came up and that there was an issue with adding me back to the policy and if they added me back to the policy it would be likely that an under writer would terminate the policy. I think this is due to the 7 day gap in coverage. Is having a gap in coverage bad? What are the consequences? Will I be fined?
  • When you have a financed car, you MUST have auto insurance to protect the lender. You did 1 thing smart, to park the car and did not drive it, but, it was only a matter of days before the lender would find out you cancelled/lapsed the policy, and the lender could put on "forced" insurance which is pricey. 7 days makes you a higher risk, since if you cancel/lapse not pay, then they expect you might do it again, to cancel/reinstate etc. good luck
  • I suggest you to visit this internet site where you can compare rates from different companies: http://PROTECTIONQUOTES.NET/index.html?s... RE :Lapse in insurance, need help please (maryland)? Hey guys, I'm in need of some guidance. My car insurance is ripping me a new one. My insurance policy has me and my dad listed under it with two financed vehicles, I have been paying the insurance for us both because his insurance rate isn't that much and it benefits me to have him on the policy. For the past year I have been insured with "Esurance" and have been steadily paying $500.00 a month for insurance (it's high because I had a bad record 2 years ago but have stayed clean since then), I have never missed a payment. I lost my job last month and didn't have enough money to pay my October 1st insurance bill. I decided to take my name and car off the policy because I did not have the money to pay it. I left my dad and his car on the policy and paid $100 for their insurance, which was the last of the money I had. I did not drive my car since I had taken it off the policy (7 days). I didn't think doing that would be a problem since I had not been driving my car. I have recently found a new job and was able to save up a few hundred dollars. When I called my insurance company to have me reinstated to my policy they said that a red flag came up and that there was an issue with adding me back to the policy and if they added me back to the policy it would be likely that an under writer would terminate the policy. I think this is due to the 7 day gap in coverage. Is having a gap in coverage bad? What are the consequences? Will I be fined? Follow 1 answer
  • 10% down with top credit. 20% down if you have any dings. Check your credit reports at annual credit report.com Print them out, and review them line by line, fixing any errors. Do not close your oldest credit card accounts, and do not open any new credit 6 months before getting your condo. If everything is ok with your reports, you can go back to equifax.com and get your score for about 8 bucks, or myfico.com for about 15 bucks. Note: Major lenders like FHA do not go by scores - they view your reports in detail. The score is good for you to know. 760 and above is will allow you to put just 10% down. But keep in mind that if you don't put 20% you'll have to pay that nasty PMI which is like throwing thousands away a year. /
  • You'll need at least $10,000 with prepaids and closing costs, and probably closer to $15,000 for a 150k unit.
  • 20% 30k for a conventional mortgage Or 3.5% 5k for a FHA mortgage but then you pay PMI insurance each month
  • I have been waiting a month and the title company says that they are waiting for a judge to sign off on the record of the deed from the previous owner to the bank. Once this is done than I can close. But I am wondering if this is something that can take weeks or months. I don't want to lose the rate on my locked in loan rate.
  • It could take up to 60 days for the sale to be ratified or confirmed, or whatever term is used in Maryland. Once that has happened, it could take another 30 days for the paperwork to be completed and mailed. If you are worried about losing your loan lock, you can contact your lender and extend the lock, or it may be possible to get a better rate and a new lock.
  • talk with a commercial lender. make sure you don't get sheisted...meaning have your questions written up clearly.
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